Table Saw Cutting Techniques

A table saw (also known as a saw bench or bench saw in the United Kingdom) is a woodworking tool that consists of a circular saw blade mounted on an arbor and powered by an electric motor (either directly, by belt, or by gears). The blade protrudes through the top of a table, which supports the material being cut, which is usually wood.

The depth of the cut is varied in most modern table saws by moving the blade up and down: the higher the blade protrudes above the table, the deeper the cut in the material.

The blade and arbor were fixed in some early table saws, and the table was moved up and down to expose more or less of the blade. The angle of the blade is adjusted to control the cut angle. The table of some older saws was angled to control the cut angle.

Cutting Techniques of Table Saw

Make a quick zero-clearance tabletop

To set the distance from the rip fence, first attach your temporary hardboard tabletop to the saw’s tabletop, then raise the blade through it. Create a temporary tabletop for your table saw in seconds instead of crafting a new zero-clearance insert to replace your table saw’s factory throat-plate insert, as shown. Set the fence for the cut you want to make, then use clamps or cloth-backed, double-face tape to secure a piece of 14″hardboard to your table saw top. Slowly raise the spinning blade through the hardboard to cutting height by holding it down with another scrap.

Use a Stable Plywood Base

To recess the carriage bolt heads, flip the board over and drill 1-inch diameter holes about 0.25 inches deep. You can now use washers and nuts to secure the table saw in place. Begin with a 0.75-inch plywood sheet. Cut the plywood foundation a few inches wider and longer than the table saw specifications. Then, in the center of the board, cut a 1-square-foot hole. Raise your table saw and center it. Mark the mounting holes and drill a 0.125-inch hole where the lines suggest.

Add a fence to the miter gauge for smoother crosscuts

When crosscutting, most miter gauges’ limited breadth provides poor support, especially when cutting at an angle. Attach a wood fence to the miter gauge for further support. Use a straight 13 or 14, and make it high enough so that the blade doesn’t fully chop it off. (Most gauges contain holes for this purpose.) Then you may add a removable stop block to create several cuts or vary the angle of the fence to produce miter cuts with the same fence. Before making any cuts, double-check the accuracy of the miter gauge using a square or protractor. Always push the work piece and fence completely past the blade to minimize binding and kickbacks when cutting. Then, before pulling the fence back and removing newly cut pieces, switch the saw off.

Get a Digital Angle Gauge

The Winey Angle Gauge with Magnetic Base, for example, makes life in the woodshop a lot easier. Set the gauge’s magnetic base against the blade and crank it up to 90 degrees. To calibrate, push the zero button. The gauge will now be able to detect an accurate angle after being reset. Set the blade at the correct angle, and the gauge will give you a perfect reading. This gauge is simple to use and saves you a lot of time making manual changes to get the angles right, whether it’s 22.5 degrees or 45 degrees.

Clamp on a long fence for long boards

It’s difficult to keep a long, hefty board or a complete sheet of plywood tight against a small fence, especially when you’re working alone. The wood can easily stray from the fence, damaging the cut or causing the blade to bind and leave burn scars along the edge. Clamp a long level or a long, straight board to the fence to avoid these issues. The easier it is to maintain the wood firmly against the fence, the longer it is.

Use a half fence for complicated grain

Clamp a smooth, straight length of 3/4-in. if this starts to happen. wood against the fence, ending at the saw blade’s center The trapped piece (the area between the blade and the fence) can bend without slamming into the blade thanks to this half fence. Keep a few push sticks on hand to maneuver around the clamps and finish the cut quickly. When you shred wood with knots or wavy grain, or wood that has been dried unevenly, it will frequently warp badly. One of the parts will push against the fence, causing burn scars, a backlash, or an uneven cut if it bends outward. Turn the saw off and wedge a shim between the two parts if they bend toward one other while being cut, pinching the splitter at the end of the blade guard. Then finish the cut.

Cut narrow strips with a sliding jig

Attach a 5-inch-long strip of 1/16-inch-thick wood to construct the jig. narrower than the desired rip’s breadth, to the end of a 16, as indicated. You’re basically making a horizontal push stick. To offer yourself better control as you run the jig through the saw, add a handle towards the end. You don’t need to remove the blade guard or shift the fence for each cut to generate a succession of identical narrow strips for shelf edging. Simply join the end of a 4-foot length of wood with a short strip of wood that is somewhat thinner than the width of the rip cut. 1×6. Then press the jig through while holding the board against it. You can rip as many pieces as you need without ever changing the fence since the jig keeps your hands away from the blade.

Save your fingers with push sticks

It’s time to grab a push stick if your hand is within a foot of the table saw blade. This indispensable table saw accessory is slotted to securely hook over the board’s end. You can then push it through while maintaining a firm grip on it. It enables you to make a precise straight cut while keeping your hands away from the blade. It’s a good idea to have at least these two styles on hand. For smaller, lighter boards and tighter cuts, use the long, thin push stick. When you need to apply greater downward pressure to wider, heavier boards, utilize the broad, flat push stick. As a general rule, 1/2-in. Plywood is used to make push sticks that can be used for a variety of purposes. It’s light and strong, and it’s less likely to split than solid wood. However, don’t be afraid to experiment with different thicknesses and styles to utilize in different settings. For a better grip, add alternate handles, shallower slots (for 1/4-inch plywood, for example), or strips of rubber or sandpaper to your push sticks.

Trim crooked boards with a plywood straightedge

The most beautiful pieces of lumber aren’t necessarily straight and smooth. Cleaning up the rough edges, on the other hand, isn’t tough. Simply screw a crooked board solidly to a straight strip of plywood to straighten it up (with minimal waste). Then, with the plywood against the fence, feed the board through the saw. When you’re tearing your board to width, it’ll have a straight, smooth side to hold against the fence. Make the sliding plywood straightedge from a 1-ft. 8-ft. x 8-ft. 3/4-in. wide strip plywood. Screws driven (predrilled) through a waste area secure the rough board to the plywood. Screw up through the plywood into the rough board if there isn’t enough waste area, and fill the little holes later. Alternatively, woodworking businesses sell specific surface-mounted hold-down clamps.

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