How to build table saw extension

I’ve recently received a lot of inquiries about my Table Saw extension table.

I didn’t record myself building it because I designed it a long time ago, before I wanted to share my builds with the world! I did, however, take a few pictures of the process and put together a short video to show how I did it.

I also took some measurements for you, so hopefully this is useful! This table was designed by me.

Tailoring the Table to Your Saw

Grab a tape measure and size up your machine if you decide to build one for your saw.

Be sure to change your table’s front-to-back span, if needed, because it won’t interfere with the dust port when you fold it down.

I made my table extend from one extension wing to the other. You might make yours even wider if you want, but note that the leg should be able to support it.

Supplies

A ruler/tape measure, a ratchet, a wrench, a drill and/or drill press, some drill bits, a hole saw, a hacksaw, a file, and a micrometer/caliper are all necessary tools.

For my saw, I used two 1″ square tubes, one 3/4″ tube, and two 3/4″ angled pieces, all 3′ lengths.

If I ever upgrade this project, I’d use 3/4″ tube instead of the angles; they’re sturdy enough to get the job done, but they might buckle under heavier loads. You’ll also need a few inch-and-a-half long bolts.

 

Building the Table

Cut the MDF table core top and bottom (parts 1 and 2) to size and glue them together.

Drive a brad through each corner to keep the pieces from shifting during clamping.

Mark, Cut, and Drill

To make it easier to attach the angles to my table saw, I decided to have the open edge facing out.

These we marked on the center of the inside width, which happened to be just the right spacing for me to fit the ratchet socket into to tighten the bolt.

On the 1″ bits, I used my whole saw to drill a 3/4″ hole in the bottom of the stock and then used the pilot bit in the saw to drill the hole in the bottom of the stock; the 3/4″ hole helps me to tighten the bolts with a ratchet.

Since the thickness of my table saw from bolting point to surface was 1 3/4″, the 3/4″ stock was cut in half and used as a spacer.

You don’t want to cut yourself on a sharp edge, so use your file to smooth down all of the edges and remove the burrs from drilling.

Making the Leg

Cut the leg extension (piece 14) to the desired width and length, then bevel-rip both of its edges at a 35° angle to ensure a good fit between the guide strips.

At first, aim for a slightly tight pinch, then use a block plane to shave the bevels before the extension slides smoothly into the leg housing. Attach a handle (piece 15) to the extension with glue and screws.

Close the leg and fasten a barrel bolt (piece 19) near the handle: the “male” receiver piece goes on the guide strip, and the “female” receiver piece goes on the leg extension. This bolt holds the leg retracted while the table is folded down.

Constructing the leg for the table saw stand that folds down out of the way. I needed the leg on my original out feed table to stretch and brace against the saw cabinet while also retracting so it could tuck behind the table when folded down.

The functionality I needed was provided by a telescoping leg. The extension portion is housed in the leg’s body, and the pieces are connected by a giant sliding dovetail.

Glue and screw the two side braces to the back of the leg to complete the assembly . Since the braces must pivot on their top ends, round them over on the band saw first, then go to the drill press to drill centered bolt holes.

Re-flush the bottom ends of the three pieces by attaching the braces to the back wall. And there are the reference strips (pieces 13).

Bevel-rip the strips to form and cut them to length with a 35° table saw blade.

Mounting the Table to the Saw

Installing the mounting plate and preparing the table saw stand to receive the out feed table.

It’s time to get this project up and running! The mounting plate (piece 20) that connects to the saw’s fence rail is made by laminating a thick blank of lumber together.

Ease the front bottom edge of the plate with a 3/4″-diameter round over bit to provide swing clearance for the counter. Plane it down so the top face will be around 1/16″ below the saw table when it’s connected to the fence rail.

It’s also possible that you’ll need to shave a little off the bottom back edge of the plate so it fits snugly against the fence rail.

Until continuing, sand all of the table’s wooden pieces and the mounting plate through the grits and add a couple of coats of wipe-on finish.

Finished

When making short cuts in big boards, getting extra spots to clamp stuff to, and a place to rest your accessories, it’s nice to have a helping hand! If you need additional help, you can use the same setup on both sides of the saw.

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