How to build a crosscut sled for table saw

With a crosscut sled, you can get really clean cuts with minimal tea rout. This is because the sled can protect the two faces of the board that need the most support, the underside and backside.

These are the two sides of the wood from which the table saw blade can exit.Tea rout can happen when the wood fibers around where the blade exits the wood aren’t supported.

Zero-clearance support is another name for this type of support. In any woodshop, a table saw is a must-have tool. If you have a table saw, building an effective crosscut sled should be the first item on your to-do list.

A crosscut sled, in my opinion, is important for making the saw as flexible as possible.Most table saws, large and tiny, are capable of rip cutting right out of the box, but this isn’t always the case when it comes to crosscutting. A good crosscut sled will help you make precise and repeatable cross cuts with your table saw.

The ability to use a stop block to make repeatable cuts of the same length is another advantage of a crosscut sled. This is achieved by clamping a piece of wood to your work piece, aligning it with the stone, cutting it out, and repeating the process.

Some crosscut sleds have a track built into the fence for the stop block, but clamping on a chunk of wood works just as well for a fast and simple solution.

How to make a crosscut sled

Attach Miter Blank

 Attaching the miter blank to the underside of the plywood base is the first step in creating this sled.

I’ve discovered that countersinking and drilling holes the right size for the flat head screws is the easiest way to attach the miter blank material.

When you try to attach the blank from the top by laying it in the miter slot, the issue is that when the screw reaches the plastic blank material, even though it has been pre-drilled, the plastic is displaced by the screw, and the extruded plastic forms a lump between the plastic blank and the plywood base.

The best approach is to drive small nails through the plywood base and through the acrylic, then remove the whole assembly and screw the screws in from underneath.

Check to see if any of the screws have pierced the top of the plywood; if so, simply file them flush and you’ll have a well-attached blank ready to attach a fence.

 Securing Runners to the Sled

 Pre-drilled, counter-sinker, and screwed runners with wood screws until the glue was dry enough.

 Sled Base

 Apply some wood glue to the plywood piece and place it on top. I squared all up with a table saw fence, but it’s not appropriate at this stage.

Squares will be changed later. Put some weight on it and set it aside for an hour.


 It doesn’t take much to make it. At the sled’s ends, there’s a base, two runners, and two supports.


 There are two fences on the sled. The one nearest to you must be at an exact 90-degree angle to the saw blade. The sled is kept together with the aid of the rear fence. Two strips of 3/4′′ (19mm) plywood were glued and screwed together to make these.

 Selecting materials for the fence

 And there’s the fence. Plywood is probably the simplest option here, but if you have the right equipment, a nice hardwood can also be a good option.

I’d suggest laminating a few pieces of plywood together to create a piece that’s around an inch and a half thick if you’re using plywood. So this will be two 34” pieces or three 12” pieces.

A thick piece of hardwood, such as maple, can also be used to build a fence, but only if you have a jointer and planer to mill it perfectly square. And if that’s the case, you’ll want to rough cut it, let it acclimate to your shop’s air, and then mill it perfectly square and to measure.

Softwoods should be avoided because they are the least resilient and vulnerable to warping. To put it another way, don’t attempt to build a fence out of a 2×4 stud.

Attach the back fence

 The holes for the back fence should now be marked and pre-drilled. These can only be pre-drilled through the foundation.

We’ll take the sled to the table saw and hack through the front fence and much of the foundation, but we’ll stop before we get to the back edge. This cut will be used to align our back fence, but we won’t cut all the way across the base until the back fence is in place.

 Checking for Square

 Make sure the base of the wood you’re testing is smooth and even, and that it’s been through a jointer if possible. Check with your fixed steel square after one pass through your test material.

Simply undo one of the screws to allow the fence to rotate again and re-set the alignment if it needs to be redone.

Don’t rest until you’ve done a highly accurate test cut. This speed sled has the potential to be a real workhorse for you, but it must be properly set up and calibrated.

The final step is to determine your success and ensure that the sled is square. It’s better to use plywood or MDF for this, but natural wood will suffice.

In order to get enough wood to verify, the wood should be at least 8 inches thick; thin strips of wood are not wide enough to get an accurate reading.

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