In this review, we will only grieve about hand-held circulars, conventional and submersible, stationary circulars, we will leave for another case.
A hand-held circular saw is a rather complex and traumatic tool, and everything else is very different in its characteristics. Based on this, first of all, you need to outline for yourself the circle of work that will be performed by this tool, and then proceed to the choice.
Saw blade speed and adjustment
The speed of rotation of the saw blade in a hand-held circular saw ranges from 3000 rpm to 6000. The average or optimal value is considered to be 5000 rpm. The higher the rotational speed of the circular saw blade, the easier it is to work with it:
- Hard wood is easier to cut.
- Much cleaner cutting line (with identical blades).
- Less torque is needed on the saw.
- Well, the faster the drive, the less likely it is to jam.
But not everything is so perfect, the higher the speed, the higher the temperature at the cutting site. There are saws with frequency control, but they are more expensive, and therefore you have to choose between unnecessary waste, or time spent on the destruction of tracks.
Disc diameter and maximum cutting depth
If you hadn’t guessed before, then already from the title you understood that these parameters are closely related to each other. It should be borne in mind that it is not the radius of the disc that tells us the depth of the cut, from the height from the foot of the saw to the end of the disc. And approximately we will get the following parameters:
- disc with a diameter of 160 mm– cutting depth about 45-55 mm;
- disc with a diameter of 190 mm– cutting depth about 60-65 mm;
- disc with a diameter of 230 mm– cutting depth about 80-85 mm.
As you understand, this is a very average value, since everything depends specifically on the chosen model. But, the cutting depth is the parameter that you definitely need to pay attention to, and approximately this parameter should correspond to the above data. And of course, the larger the diameter of the blade, the more powerful the saw motor should be.
I would also like to note that if the saw cuts at an angle of 45 degrees, then the cutting depth will be less than at an angle of 90 degrees. Pure geometry.
Saw blade angle adjustment
saw at an angle of 45 degrees
There are such models in nature where you can only saw at an angle of 90 degrees, there are few of them, but still we will try to stay away from them, because sooner or later, we will need an angle of 45 degrees. When choosing a saw, pay attention to the quality of the clamps when changing the angle, and try to choose a model where changing the angle of the blade is a simple exercise, and not a dance with tambourines and keys.
In order to change the saw blade on the saw, we will have to lock the spindle. And here there are two options, either it will have to be done with the help of two keys, or there is a special button on the saw and then the process of changing the disc will be greatly facilitated.
Accidental start protection
I will not tire of repeating that a hand-held circular saw is not a screwdriver for you, and if the latter can peel off the skin as much as possible, then in the case of a circular saw, the disaster will be more extensive. At best, you can never teach children to count to ten, to a maximum of nine. That is why any additional protection on a hand circular is welcomed with two hands and ten whole fingers.
Protection against accidental start is an additional button, and in order to start the saw, you need to press not one, but two buttons in different places, this greatly reduces the risks of accidentally starting the saw.
The saw does not start abruptly at maximum speed, but gradually accelerates. This function greatly protects the motor, as well as its presence excludes jerking the saw in the hands when starting.
Maintaining a constant speed
Wood is far from a homogeneous material, and in small areas both hard knots and softer fibers can come across. A saw with this system will cut different areas at the same speed.
This system will shut down the saw when it overheats. Indeed, it often happens that in the heat of work we forget that we can damage the instrument.
The handle with rubber pads will sit more comfortably and confidently in the hand, and if the hand sweats, it will still not slip.
Vacuum cleaner connection and dust collector
Cleanly, not where they clean up, but where they do not litter. If in the process of work it is possible to catch most of the dust, then the cleaning will not be so large-scale, and we will inhale wood dust several times less.
Rip fence and guide rail
Rip fence – in essence, this is a regular ruler that allows you to make a straight cut based on the edge of the workpiece. And there are also plunge-cut circular saws that work on a guide rail mounted on the workpiece. To do this, the model must have a special groove on the sole, which will guide the saw along the guide rail. This saw, together with the bar, gives an amazingly high cutting accuracy and is very quick and easy to work.
It all depends specifically on the model itself. To understand what her viewing area is, you need to hold the saw in your hands, the better you can see the workpiece, the easier it will be to drive the saw when working.
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